Shekha gets a taste of après ski in midsummer…
Cheese lovers, Swiss food fans, those craving that après ski feeling
In a Word
Slick and stylish, it is clear a lot of work and money has gone into opening Heritage, one of few Swiss restaurants in the city. Dark wood accents, a lot of leather and bare walls make for an expectedly polished interior. During the Thursday-evening launch of the dimly-lit space, it seems more nightclub than a restaurant. Midsummer heat and pumping house music accompanied by smoking raclette and grill stands makes for a somewhat stifling experience – rendered even headier by the efficient bar refilling our drinks as soon as they are finished. While the notion of opening a restaurant serving food and an experience designed for sub-zero temperatures and crisp winter nights in mid-July seems slightly ludicrous, the evening is nevertheless an enjoyable one due to compelling cocktails and a comforting amount of cheese.
Food is expectedly indulgent, with a profusion of melted cheese coming from a variety of sources. While this is undoubtedly heavy fare for a summer evening, it is possible to sample a few different items which give a taste of the extended menu. The showmanship of live cooking stations, where small slivers of fillet steak, pork, prawns and shellfish are cooked according to preference also adds to the overall vibe. Charcuterie is plentiful and offers a pleasing saltiness which is offset well by little cornichons. Potatoes blanketed with lashings of raclette tick all the boxes.
While Heritage presents itself as one of Soho’s stylish new additions – the food sampled was solid, alluding to substance as well. Albeit, checking the online menu, with a price tag many might baulk at. While various melted cheese, meat and potatoes in various incarnations are probably not for everyone, going in a group and going hungry seems the best way to get the most out of the experience. The wider menu promises large portions – good for sharing – but perhaps when the temperature drops!